Signals & Semaphores

Following a Belgian example

Because commercial light semaphores are quit expensive, and are not as nice as I would like them, I build them myself. To reduce time and effort, I build them in small series.

In search of a suitable electric connection, I came across mini-DIN-connectors. The male part is cut and sanded to become a 8mm plug.
On a self-adhesive label, I printed a separate print of the semaphore plate. From a piece of 0,2 mm thick brass sheet, I cut a 20 mm wide strip, whereon I stuck the label.
Using 0,5 and 1,5 mm drills, I made holes for the support rod and the lights. Next the plate is cut out with scissors, and sanded smooth.

Next, a 3x1.5 mm brass U-profile, is soldered to the DIN-male. This support is then cut to length. After carefully placing the semaphore plate, it is soldered to the support beam. The holes for the support rod are drilled through the beam.
Earlier, I used subminiature LED's as light bulbs. Now I use SMD-type LED's, as they are smaller and thus more matching. Even an SMD isn't small enough, though, so I had to sand it a little. On the picture is a partly sanded green SMD-LED. I used white 3mm LED's, too, as the white SMD-types where far to expensive. I sanded them to shape using a sharp knife and my hobby-drill.
After testing the SMD's, I marked the plus-connection at the back. Using acrylate adhesive, I glued them to the semaphore plate. You can notice the (far bigger) white LED on the picture, too.

Before connecting the LED's, I did some more soldering. As the wire insulation could melt, I do as much soldering as possible. After connecting the wires any soldering could be disastrous for the connections. The front gangway and its support beams are placed first, using L-shaped 1x1 mm brass profiles. The gangway frame is made from 0.5 mm wire, the plate from a piece of etched brass. These are all carefully soldered in place.
Now, using very fine brass wires, the 'plus'-connections between the LED's and the (common anode) semaphore plate are made.
Next, the 'minus'-connections is made between the LED's and the connector. I use fine-coated brass wire, recycled from an old electric motor, for these connections.

As we don't want to test each LED every time using a battery and resistor, it's time to connect the female part of the DIN-connector. A small piece of 1,5 mm thick, with a 8mm and some 3mm holes drilled is glued to the connector. The common 'plus' is connected, and the other pins are connected using 1500 Ohms resistors.
To block light at the back of the semaphore panel, it is painted black, using multiple layers of thick acrylic paint.
The back of the supporting beam is assembled separately. From thin brass sheet, I cut some 1mm wide strips and bend them U-shaped. They are very carefully soldered to two 0.5 mm brass wires, using a computer blueprint as a mold. This skeleton-shaped construction is then cut to shape, and glued to the supporting beam using acrylate glue.

The back gangway and its security fence are soldered from 0,5mm brass wire. The etched brass platform is glued first, the pre-assembled frame and security fence is glued on top of this.
To protect the connecting wires at the bottom, I poured some synthetic kit on it using a silicon mould I made earlier. This kit is then sanded to shape the semaphore foot.

After an overall inspection, the semaphore is thoroughly cleaned and airbrushed.
On self-adhesive labels, I printed some semaphore plates. After cutting out the light holes and clipping it to shape, I stuck them on the signal. The supporting rod is shaped from 0,5mm brass wire. The edges of the label and the rod are then painted black.
From a 1,5 mm wide brass sheet strip, I cut 4 mm shaped pieces, which I bent round a 1,5mm drill. These tiny light caps are carefully glued in place and painted black, too.

Next, using self-adhesive labels, I made some small number plates, ... en from some scrap styrene a small telephone box. Finally, the semaphore is protected using some airbrushed matt varnish.

... And this is the result:

Following the article in MSM and TMM, you can download the drawings:

e.g. using Internet Explorer: Right mouse click, save target as ..