Street lights

The connector system is made from PCB-type contact strips and some electric wires, bent to shape and pushed into the strip.
After preparing these wires, place the leds at a small distance from the strip. As polarity of a LED is important, place them all in the same direction. Tight-fitting these SMD's, it's easier to solder them to the wires. Ater this, clip the wire.

The left hand side of the drawing is a lateral view, showing how the plug goes through the building's wall. The bottom side of this construction holds a tiny SMD-type LED, transmitting light through a fiber, mounted inside a small brass tube. The led and tube are held together by a small piece of styrene.
At the right you can see how the connector fits, and have a better view on the styrene part dimensions.

The styrene support strip is made from a scrap part of 0,5mm thick sheet. A piece of PCB-experimenting board guides us for the right pin positions. After drilling the pin holes, we can shape the rest of the support. The upper part should be 1mm wide and 12mm long, the base part (conseiling the connector) should be 3 x 6 mm. This support is glued to the SMD.

A 4cm piece of 1,3mm thin brass tube forms the lamp post, a 5cm optic fiber will transport the light to a "bulb" at the end of the lantern.
I used a 8mm thick steel rod to bend the brass tube to shape. After bending, glue the tube to the styrene support and shove the optic fiber in position.

The lamp's heads are made from small styrene disks, punched out of a styrene sheet with a 4mm thick sharpened tube and a hammer. In the middle of these disks, drill a 1,2mm hole. Using a slightly to narrow hole, the disk will bent to shape and tight-fit around the brass tube.

To prevent any light to shine through this lamp hood, we put some thick black paint on top of it. The lamp base should be shielded as well. As we need a strong light to reach the "bulb", pay extra attention to blocking the light there. Use the black paint in a slightly darkened room and send the full 20mA current through the Led to see any light leaking.

An airbrush is the best choice to paint the lantern, especially when making small series. When using an airbush, shield the optic fibre and the electric connectors for paint, using masking tape.
When the paint has dried, remove this tape and cut the end of the fibre to lenght to imitate a light bulb.

Prepare the building's façade for the female contact. Choose an appropriate height and drill two small holes horiziontaly, at 2,54mm apart. Widen these holes using a 2,5mm drill, and remove the space between these larger holes with a round file to get a fitting oval-shaped opening for the female connector part.

Use a piece of the female connector to measure the opening size. Once the shape is OK, use transparent contact glue to fix the connector in place.
Make sure to align the connector with the wall's surface, in order to get a reliable electric contact, without any space between the lantern and its socket.

The lantern can now be placed, and removed if nescessary. Time needed or this construction method is about one hour, provided you make the lantern in a small series.
This mounting and connecting method should enable us to place more complicated lights, such as publicity boards, too.